Story of the Grape
"A true wine grape grower will put in an incredible amount of effort just to make a leaf roll over and get a little more sun." This quote I heard once is not far from the truth. We demand that our wine growers leave no stone unturned and every aspect of wine grape growing is considered, evaluated and reevaluated. 100-year old vines are commonplace around the world and they represent generations of growers taking care of these vines and the special fruit they produce. What follows is a summary of some of the decisions and work that DeLILLE CELLARS' winegrowers consider.
RESEARCH AND DESIGN
The number one decision is site selection. It's the most important because the sun, climate, slope, directional-facing and soil types not only determine the overall quality of the vineyard, but the site also will dictate many other decisions. A warmer site with poor soils and a dry October may suggest Cabernet Sauvignon be planted. Obviously the varietal selection is important along with rootstocks (Washington is on its own, natural rootstocks).
DeLILLE has found that clonal selections are very important. Orientation (ex., the direction, NE to SW, the vine rows run) will maximize and allow balanced sun exposure. Vine density and spacing, cover crop, trellis and pruning systems all are critical, in addition to decisions on irrigation and water storage. Frost and winter freeze protection is paramount in Washington. Is organic farming important to you or sustainable growing? Bio-dynamic growing is an ultra-organic almost pagan style of growing that is gaining in popularity.
DEVELOPING A VINEYARD FIRST YEAR
After the vineyard design and plants are chosen, the drip irrigation is laid down and the young vines are planted. The vines will not produce fruit for a couple of years, so the main concern is the healthy development of the young plants. They are given all the water they need. Protection from the cold and frost is really important for these baby vines as well as protection from animals, such as deer, that eat the vines.
VINEYARD YEAR TWO
The main concern is health of the vines. Usually the first year's growth is cut down to 6 inches above the ground to promote root development, especially in Washington where vines are on their own rootstocks.
YEAR THREE
A limited crop comes with this vintage. If trellis wires have not been put up yet, then they are now. The vines are now large enough to prune and can be trained in the chosen system (ex., guyots, Bi-lateral Cordons, etc.) Irrigation systems, pest and microbiology sprays and all other systems are now in place and harvesting fruit is what is in mind. Harvest is usually limited and quality can range from uneven to excellent.
YEAR FOUR & BEYOND
The vineyard is now reaching its full production mode, though minor adjustments to improve quality will be made for years to come. Below is a typical yearly cycle and vineyard timeline for one vintage. Real dates vary according to different regions, microclimates and grape varietals.
Pruning: Usually starting in February. The act of cutting off various parts of grape vines, usually in winter when the vines are dormant. Pruning develops the shapes of vines when they are young and controls the growth, fruit quantity and quality of producing vines.
Bud break: Starting from the end of March. The action of buds swelling and beginning new growth in spring. These young buds are very vulnerable to cold weather and frost. If buds freeze it will not produce a crop.
Berry set: In June. The fixing of tiny newly pollinated berries to the stem.
Veraison: In early August. The mid-way point in berry development, when they change from green to purple (in red grapes) or green to lighter green (in white grapes) and become soft. Veraison is often a good time to thin down a heavy crop, lowering the yields and concentrating the flavors of the fruit.
Harvest: In September and October. When the winemakers believe the grapes have perfect ripeness and flavors, they are hand-picked and delivered to the cellar for crushing.
Throughout the season - irrigation: With drip irrigation, we can now drip the exact amount of water at the exact time we want to. Neutron probes tell us how full the soil is with water. Too much water early can give too large a canopy. Not enough during a hot summer can kill a vine. Before harvest too much water can pump up the grapes, not enough can shrivel the grapes, especially Syrah. The right amount can round out and sweeten the tannins in Cabernet. Each grower must watch his vines for different signs and develop a program that is right for their vineyard site, soil, grape varietals and seasonal conditions.
Throughout the season - pest management: Pest management is constantly changing. Growers are using more oils and sprays that are eco-friendly. Natural pest predators are being used as well. There are now Internet sites that can calculate where in the state mildew pressure is high and when, giving us a full week's notice to protect our vineyards from mildew. Again each grower must develop a program that suits his vineyard and the condition and pests that we may have.
Growing to make wine: Finally our grape grower must be a "wine grower" and work in conjunction with our winemakers. Fine wine is the goal. The winemaker's style must be considered. Is the winemaker blending the grapes with other vineyards and looking for a certain component from the grapes? Or are they more concerned with tannins than other winemakers? Does the winemaker prefer higher or lower acidity? The dedication and passion of our grape growers is obvious. We shared this with you to educate you in the effort that goes into every cluster of grapes. Always raise a glass to all the growers that DeLILLE CELLARS works with and say, "thanks".
